Why FiberWay?
Dear Fiber Lover,
Have you ever wondered about the issues surrounding sustainable fibers? Let me introduce you to some of them. While we often hear brands promoting their "sustainable" products and see reports emphasizing sustainability as a crucial concern, especially in the face of climate change, the real question remains: Are we seeing tangible changes in production? Is the growth of organic and regenerative fibers truly making an impact?
In 2021, global production of organic cotton reached approximately 271,000 metric tons, a 4% increase from the previous year. Despite this growth, organic cotton still represents a small fraction of the overall cotton market (Textile Exchange). By 2022, organic cotton production increased to around 315,000 metric tons, indicating a continuous, albeit slow, growth trend. The Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA) reported that the number of farmers in their programs tripled during the 2021-2022 season, showing significant engagement and support for organic practices (OCA 2022 Annual Report).
To put this into perspective, it’s estimated that global cotton production averages around 27 million metric tons annually. Comparing this to the 315,000 metric tons of organic cotton reported by OCA, organic cotton still only makes up about 1% of total production. This ratio has remained relatively constant over the past decade, highlighting the slow progress in achieving sustainability goals.
Seven years ago, reports from Fashion Revolution and Textile Exchange noted that at least 36 brands committed to using 100% organic cotton by 2025. Fast forward to today, Textile Exchange mentions that in 2020, 30% of all cotton used in the industry came from recognized sustainable programs and initiatives. While this is commendable, if we aim for 50% of cotton sourcing from sustainable practices, there's still a long way to go, and we face similar challenges with other sustainable fibers.
Even though I am a cotton enthusiast, relying solely on one type of sustainable fiber is not truly sustainable. We need a variety of sustainable fibers to create a more balanced sourcing and production system.
This slow progress stems from disconnections between all actors in the textile industry. We expect a rapid transition to sustainable practices without fully committing to the necessary work. This disconnect has left us approaching 2025 with many of the same issues we faced decades ago.
FiberWay stemmed from my frustration with this disconnect. I saw how the gap between promises and reality affected farmers. Revisiting places from my childhood and witnessing their negative transformation pushed me to create something that could bring positive value to all entities involved in production, including biodiversity.
Like many entrepreneurs, I wanted to fix all the supply chain problems. It was a struggle to identify which issues were most critical and which solutions would provide the most stability for everyone involved. However, I feel compelled to share the complexities of fiber production.
In 2020, I visited a cotton farm and saw firsthand the dedication of the farmers. Despite their hard work, they faced numerous challenges, from market fluctuations to a lack of transparency in the supply chain. I then started an organic cotton project in Mexico, naively thinking it would be easy to show farmers the benefits of commercial production.
Oh boy, was I wrong! We faced numerous challenges, such as convincing farmers that brands would pay for organic cotton (we still haven't found a brand willing to take the risk and buy our cotton). Sourcing certified organic seeds was another hurdle, which was particularly frustrating because G. hirsutum, or Upland cotton, is native to Mexico. It is disheartening that we are not preserving these native seeds. Additionally, we lost 30% of the crop to hares due to the loss of their natural predators, and we encountered many infrastructure issues with the ginning plant.
Despite these challenges, I don’t regret this experience. It reinforced my commitment to creating FiberWay, a platform that truly supports farmers and connects them with brands that value their work.
The textile industry is vast and complex, with many interconnected issues. According to recent studies, less than 20% of global textile supply chains have full transparency, and many sustainable practices are still not widely adopted. These statistics highlight the need for a platform like FiberWay to bring about real change.
Over the next series of articles, I will explore the following challenges in detail:
Transparency and Traceability: Ensuring full visibility from farm to fabric.
Sustainable Practices: Adopting and verifying organic and regenerative farming methods.
Farmer Support and Advocacy: Providing adequate support systems and advocacy for farmers.
Economic Pressures: Addressing financial strains on producers and brands, including pricing and market access.
Technological Integration: Integrating advanced technology into traditional farming and sourcing practices.
Certification and Compliance: Navigating the complexities and costs of meeting certification standards.
Supply Chain Logistics: Managing the logistical challenges of transporting raw materials efficiently and sustainably.
Each article will provide an in-depth look at one of these challenges, offering insights into the current state of the industry and potential solutions. FiberWay aims to address these problems by creating a transparent, efficient, and supportive ecosystem for all stakeholders.
Through this series, I hope to shed light on the issues and highlight the steps we are taking to create a more connected and sustainable future. By working together, we can overcome these challenges and build a better industry for everyone involved.
