Restoration Over Sustainability: Why Restoring Traditions is Essential for True Progress

Restoration over Sustainability.
Restoration over Organic.
Restoration over Regenerative.

In today’s sustainable fashion discourse, these words dominate. But do they truly reflect what we’re striving for, or are they simply riding the wave of hype?

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Recently, the Textile Exchange Conference explored how to make restoration more effective. Many programs and projects already exist to accelerate this transition—we just need the will to implement them. Restoration isn’t just another term for me; it captures the essence of the work I’m passionate about.

Embracing Restoration Over Labels

When I talk about restoration, I mean reconnecting with the origins of the fibres we use through traditional, respectful practices. Although I’m often credited with leading one of Mexico’s first organic cotton projects, I’m far from the first. Cotton has deep roots here—Indigenous communities have cultivated it naturally for centuries, long before certification processes were introduced. Historical evidence suggests cotton cultivation in the region dates back to around 5800 BCE, though some dispute this date. Today, Gossypium hirsutum—better known as upland cotton—accounts for approximately 94% of global cotton production.

Sadly, much of this traditional knowledge goes unacknowledged. Modern certifications like “organic” and “regenerative” risk overshadowing Indigenous practices that have long respected nature’s rhythms. It’s no wonder some people view the regenerative movement sceptically—it feels like rediscovering principles they’ve always lived by.

Restoration and Biodiversity: Working With, Not Against, Nature

Restoration is deeply tied to biodiversity. Nature thrives on diversity, creating systems where plants and animals coexist and flourish without human interference. Traditional agricultural methods mirror this balance, fostering polyculture systems that enrich the soil, manage pests naturally, and create healthier ecosystems.

Cotton, for example, offers stunning biodiversity. Its blooms range from soft yellows to vibrant purples depending on the variety. Imagine restoring these diverse cotton strains and incorporating them into production. In our Mexican history, cotton wasn’t cultivated in isolation—it was intercropped with other crops like corn, beans, and squash. This method, known as the "milpa system," created a mutually beneficial environment where plants thrived together, enriching the soil and enhancing biodiversity.

Animals also play a crucial role in the ecosystem. Eagles and owls, for instance, helped control populations of hares, which often fed on young cotton plants early in the growing season. Beyond pest control, microbial life in the soil contributed to natural fertilization, reducing the need for synthetic inputs. Together, these practices not only sustained the land but also maintained harmony with the surrounding environment. Restoring such traditions could revolutionize fashion while honouring nature. Cotton’s transformative growth reminds us that, just like nature, fashion can be dynamic and diverse.

Strengthening Communities Through Restoration

Restoration isn’t just about ecosystems—it’s about people. Traditional farming strengthens local economies, supporting communities that have nurtured the land for generations. By valuing and compensating these efforts fairly, we foster resilience and sustainable livelihoods.

Indigenous people play a critical role here. Globally, they protect 80% of the world’s remaining biodiversity despite representing only 5% of the population. Supporting restoration means empowering these communities and recognizing their role in fighting climate change and preserving ecosystems.

Restoration Supports Transparency and Traceability

Modern consumers demand transparency, yet many don’t realize restoration simplifies this process. Direct relationships with farmers and producers provide clear insights into every step of the supply chain, from planting to harvesting. These connections align with restoration’s ethos, creating a supply chain that’s easier to follow, trust, and support.

Transparency allows us to “restore” trust in our suppliers, giving a platform to those genuinely working to make a positive impact. It opens doors for meaningful collaborations with the industry and serves as evidence to sceptical producers that such investments are worthwhile. It shows that this type of production isn’t just a niche, high-cost venture with little reward—it’s a step toward a resilient, scalable future.

Challenges in Implementing Restoration

Transitioning to restorative practices can be daunting. Farmers already contend with climate change’s harsh realities—floods, droughts, and pests that jeopardize crops. On top of these challenges, restoring degraded land, phasing out synthetic chemicals, and adopting natural seeds often require significant financial and time investments. Without accessible solutions or incentives, the path forward is fraught with risk.

But overcoming these barriers isn’t the sole responsibility of farmers. Governments, private agents, and industry players must step up, offering support through accessible inputs, seed banks, investment, energy solutions, and policies that level the playing field for small producers. This collective effort is essential to make restoration viable and inclusive.

The Role of Consumers in Supporting Restoration

Consumers play a pivotal role in restoration, but their role must be viewed realistically. Supporting products that prioritize restoration sustains supply chains rooted in respect and tradition. Yet, many consumers lack an understanding of production complexities and rely heavily on certifications to validate their purchases. While certifications can guide, they’re often weaponized for greenwashing—offering “sustainable capsules” instead of committing to systemic change.

Let’s be clear: the burden isn’t on consumers alone. The mess we’re in is a result of industry decisions that prioritized convenience and profit over transparency. Educating consumers is necessary, but it’s on us—brands and producers—to rebuild trust through genuine action, not marketing ploys.

Imagining a Future of Restoration

What if restoration became the norm in fashion and textiles? What if every fibre told a story of regeneration and respect? With enough support, we can redefine sustainability. Instead of merely sustaining, we can restore and improve the systems that produce our materials.

Restoration isn’t just a trend—it’s a commitment to a future where actions support the environment, honour cultural heritage, and foster a just economy. By looking back at resilient, time-tested practices, we can move forward with intention. Let’s embrace restoration as a path to true progress.

Restoration is about honouring the legacy of our ancestors and acknowledging the remarkable practices they developed—ones we lost in the pursuit of modernization. For me, restoration means not having to second-guess whether what I buy is good for the environment and myself—it’s simply good.